Glendronach 14 - Sauternes Finish

Ok. Let's cut to the chase. Look I know full well that you, Glendronach and Benraich, make some fine whisky. Some of the best. I also know that, for some reason, (and I have my own suspicions) that you insist on travelling down this road of "finishes". Ok, so maybe Benriach takes the lead in this (6 different wood finishes) but in July 2010 GlennyD opened up 4 wood finishes - the "first of their kind ever to be released by the distillery in its 180 year history". So we had a Sauternes, a Virgin Oak, a Moscatel, and a Tawny Port finish. Most of the core range itself has been double dipped in a couple of casks along the way as well. So my question is what is the D.N.A. of the distillery? What is it's signature? What makes Glendronach, Glendornach? Because from this particular dram I'm finding it difficult to ascertain a straight answer.

Straight answers are not what this dram is about. Now, I'm not saying that this is a "bad thing". It's more like a thing I'm struggling with. You know that film "Inception"? Pretty tricky plot. Story with kinks in it. Tasty effects. That's what I feel about this. 

On the nose it's bang, straight into the action with desiccated coconut, chocolate fudge, and back to Bounty Bar ice cream. Sweet. Then after a little while longer up comes the strawberry jam. This cask has obliterated any sign of what may have been whisky previously - it's just sweet, but in an unlike Sauternes way - there's no grape vibe, just teddy bears picnic. 

The odd thing is that on the palate - it's all askew. Like a cake it's layered but with a sweet then bitter then a touch of salt as icing. There's no spice and no integration. It's sweet one way, and then hello bitterness coming from the other. There's no balance. And it just doesn't follow. Yeah, it's a little oily, a bit creamy, which is kinda nice. After a while in the glass it seems to be trying to become more whisky-like, like it's trying to shed off this big over-coat that's cloaking it. Will the real slim shady please stand up! 

Look, I'll be honest, I haven't a clue what this particular dram is up to. I just don't get it. That doesn't mean I don't like it. I like most drinks. But it is like "Inception". There's a lot more questions it throws up than resolves. It's enjoyable, yes. Baffling, yes. But fulfilling, no.

Springbank Rundlets and Kilderkins.

Working in the ale trade we're all too familiar with Kilderkins. 18 Gallons. Sinch. But a Rundlet? Well that's an old measure for wine casks - 18 gallons again, but wine gallons - or 15 imperial gallons today. Well since 1824 when the imperial system came in. Ah, easy eh?

Anyhow, this new Springbank baby is matured in these smaller size casks - not sure for how long though - maybe since it was distilled in November 2001 until they bottled it in January 2012 - it's a good guess in lieu of any other concrete information. And these smaller casks mean that it has more contact with the wood and so therefore should mature that little bit faster. This Springbank is a bit of a limited run, limited to 9000 bottles and apparently they'll be doing a Longrow and Hazelburn version in subsequent years.

Well I got to admit this is a very fine dram. And it especially doesn't drink like one at 49.4% either.
The nose on this is fairly stunning and one that you can have a good half hour getting around.
It kicks off with a lovely barley presence and then, quite interestingly comes the citrus touch - more like preserved lemons - those one's in a jar. After this comes a whiff of smoke, a touch peaty but not overtly so. There's a dryness, brittle wood. Some sweetness, a suggestion of cough sweets. The nose is intense, hitting the back of the senses and making the mouth water. It's beautifully balanced with the wood going hand in hand with subtle smoke waves. There's a touch of sherry sweetness too. A little while on, it breaks down to a hot chocolate chip pudding. Slightly dusty again. Clean, fresh. A final note of a walk in the forest. The forest floor. Pine needles.

The palate continues the theme of the nose. It's a slow builder, taking a while to get going. A long intro. The smoke comes first, then the spice rises later on. The sweetness and a little touch of bitterness. There's a touch of nut, some orange and those preserved lemons make an appearance again. The wood and smoke are, like the nose, balanced against the spice. It finishes long, creamy and full bodied with a lick of sweetness.

Tea - Mackwoods.

Tea. I love Tea. First thing in the morning it's the best thing. Now I imagine, that like most people, it's Tea-bag straight into hot water. Mash and add milk. But I've been reading a bit about Japanese Tea making recently and they take tea making very, very seriously. It's a huge thing culturally, socially and it's almost taken as an art-form, taking years to master all the stages of the tea ceremony.
Obviously I like drinking all things and since getting into the various types of coffee beans has opened my eyes and taste buds to a new level of coffee goodness it's probably about time to investigate the world of loose tea and teas from around the world. Should make for quite an enjoyable journey away from all those booze drinks I have to taste and sell.

So first up is a tea that was brought back a present from Sri Lanka. This is from Mackwoods Labookellie Estate. It's a single estate and (so they claim) one of Sri Lanka's finest tea gardens situated 2000 metres above sea level in the hills of Nuwara-Eliya. Founded in 1841 by Captain William Mackwood, today the company is owned by a host of companies with a divergent portfolio of interests. Nevertheless they still retain 27,000 acres of plantation comprising 17 Tea and Rubber estates.

Known primarily for their Ceylon tea, but this is a Broken Orange Pekoe variety. I found it medium bodied, not citrusy or perfumed and perhaps slightly nutty, dry with no real big tannins going on. Refreshing and clean. For me I like a stronger, full-on brew for me first cup but this would be a very nice mid afternoon refreshing quaffer.

Glenfarclas 15

We've got a few bottles of Glenfarclas kicking about. The 105 cask strength, the entry level 10 year old. And there's the oh-so lovely 175 Anniversary edition all beaming proudly on the back bar of the Blake Hotel at the mo. So maybe that's a heads up for a bit of a Glenfarclas family tasting. Well that's certainly what I was thinking when I was out the other night and spotted the 15 Year Old.

I must admit I sometimes forget about Glenfarclas. It's easy to overlook them with so much whisky noise around, but really we shouldn't. For one, they are a family owned business, one of only a handful of Scottish distilleries that still are. And if business provenance is your thing then that's something worth considering when supping your Louie Vuitton Moet Hennessy owned Ardbeg. And two, they consistently make great whisky. No fancy triple wood experiments. No fussy finishes. No pretentious marketing names. Solid and reliable. It's what they've done for generations and it's what they'll continue to do for generations to come. And being a traditionalist is a little bit refreshing when there's so much quasi-innovation around. Of course, none of this would matter if they made bad drams!

Anyway back to the 15 which I had out the other night. In a tumbler it's hard to pin down all the aromas but it's full bodied and inviting. Quite savoury and meaty. There's a oak note and other incense wood, perhaps cedar but I'd have to go back to check that. On the palate there's a reservation of spice, subtle and slowly building. Smooth and delicate and perhaps slightly feminine. It's a way off the brash 105 masculine vibe. It's clean and goes through a through stages with a particularly interesting phase half way that I fail to pin down. There's a raisin and chocolate orange note along with the classic Sherry wood that you come to expect from Glenfarclas. It's a dainty finish, drying with a mere hint of salt. Beautifully balanced and well constructed.

A definite must and one that will be re-evaluated in that Glenfarclas family tasting hopefully sometime soon.

Glen Spey 1995 Connoisseurs Choice

This is from a recent Connoisseurs Choice bottling.

On the nose it's clear, clean malt. There's hay and cut grass. It's light. Wait a while and there's an unexpected twist of strawberries and cream. A touch of baked apple perhaps. Some tropical fruit but reserved really. After a little bit more the aroma of cheap advent calendar chocolate and tinned condensed milk shine through.

The palate is a parade of malt, spice then cream and butter. There's a slight oiliness to it but not too much - it's all too delicately balanced. Again, a thread of smoke that links. And that strawberry and cream nose coming through as flavour at the end, when everything else has had enough of itself.

There's a tangy bitterness on the finish. It's a youthful dog, not exactly sprite but neither placid either. There's a touch of a salty edge but again it's all about balance. Nothing here pokes it's head too far out. Everything is well crafted. Everything in it's place. Everything well balanced. Not like a Japanese or Swedish malt where this is it's intended destination. More like a fruit picked from the tree as opposed to one that falls. You feel it has the legs to go that extra ageing. As if the casks have yet to fully reveal themselves. Possibly too polite. It's great where it is but this is not it's final stop. But where it is is great. Enjoy.

Islay Tasting Feb 2012

Last months tasting was Islay. It's been about a year or so since we did this small island off the coast of Scotland. So we had some new bottles to play with. I'm sure this was the running order for the night - although I may have swapped 1 and 2 around. Sadly I didn't get to keep a sample of all of them to double check.

1. Bruichladdich Laddie Ten

2. Bunnahabhain Macphail's dist. 2001 btl. 2011

3. Laphroaig Triple Wood

4. Ardbeg Corryvreckan

5. Kilchoman 5YO.

6. Caol Ila  G&M 1997 Hermitage Finish.

So everything was fairly new - ok the Triple Wood Laphroaig has been available as a Friends of Laphroaig and in Duty Free for a bit. The Bruichladdich is from the new distilling regime. Numbers 2, 5 and the freebie that was number 6 are 2011 bottles. Leaving just Corryvreckan as something that's been kicking around a little longer.

Bruichladdich Laddie 10

Spicy to kick off. The impression of peat but it's all spice and rugged. Dry fruit, slight chocolate bar - Cadbury's Twirl. It's the Cadbury's Caramel Bunny. Chunky, dependant and reliable. It's a nose that's assured and directional. Seductive. Lovely chunky fruit. It follows on with the palate. Large. Lego bricks. Chunk, chunk, chunk. It's oh-so lovely and balanced. No rough edges, no gambles. There's nothing here to disappoint. It's a cuddle. It's a hug. Chocolate and malt on the finish. Take it easy Mr Beaver.

Bunnahabhain 2001 MacPhails.

No sample but you can have a look at the Adelphi review as a comparison. It;s not that far off. Except this would be a bit cheaper. In the meantime here's a picture...

Enjoy that yeah?

Laphroaig Triple Wood.

I've had this a couple of times and I'm not sure about it. It ticks all the right boxes, it's really well made. Yes it's the Quarter Cask finished for a bit longer in a Sherry Butt. I know they say it's the most complex version yet. It's undoubtably Laphroaig. It's just that the sharpness, that direct attack that defines Laphroaig is masked by the cask. Don't get me wrong maybe this is a good thing. When I first heard the Streets "Original Pirate Material" i didn't "get it". I knew it was of value but I couldn't get my head round it.  And so with this. But when I actually sat down and listened to the Streets - gave it some time and considered it on it's own then I got to work it out. It's going to have to be the same with this. I'm sure.

Ardbeg Corryvreckan

Nowhere near the peat you expect. Subtle. You can smell the sweetness. Lilacs in the bonfire. Flowers.  And then it slowly marches on. That persistent peat drum. And now here it arrives. How do they do that? A Kings' fanfare. Unfolds and reveals. Char-grilled Lamb. Aubergine. Turksh meze. Tar, grit, asphalt. Burnt rubber.  Heady Dark Chocolate. American cinnamon. Power and grace. The complexity follows in the palate along with that regular Ardbeg electric spark. It rises, peaks, plateau and descends homeward. It reminds me of watching the boating lights from the headland of East Runton, superfluous cigarettes and sleeping in a tent. That barely safe from the elements, but actually safe from the elements kind of feeling.

Kilchoman 2006

I had a cask sample of the 5YO at the Whisky Exchange Show months back. This though is the official  release released at 46%. It's the most upfront. It says peat. It says Islay. There's the obvious smoke but it's custard cream as well. Kind of youthful in a playful way; young as opposed to immature. Again direct and assured but without overbearing force. It's not as try hard, show-and-tell as the Ardbeg. It's the custard and vanilla that keep it fresh without labouring the point. So the Ardbeg, in comparison looks a little prog rock. This is that Pete, Bjorn and John "Whistling Song". Don't get me wrong - it's got bollox, it's got legs. But it knows it's own path. It might not be as chunky as the Bruichladdich but they seem to be siblings in a spiritual way. In the same way that the Ardbeg and the Lahproaig have a connection so does the 10YO Bruichladdich and the 5YO Kilchoman. Is it any wonder???

Caol Ila Gordon and MacPhail

Hermitage Wood Finish 1997.

Wow this is a weird little beasty. It's the colour of rose wine (no wonder as it's finished in a Hermitage cask - that's Rhone and that means Syrah, mainly). Or maybe some proper nasty West Country cider. Deep. But on the nose it's all Islay. Peat reek, smoke, and stacks of chocolate chip cookie. Weird. Yep there's them wine notes you'd be expecting too. Full and round. Proper horsey ride as it kicks on the palate. The lagtime makes you think "Where is..." before swamping the mouth, smashing it about, a bit of a rag, raising the spice and the smoke in tandem with that kind of chocolate meets, and it is there, syrah. I kind of wish I had this blind - just to see whether I would have got the cask. There's two very opposing elements going on here - and it feels like the Caol Ila itself is a bit more potent and pokey than usual. The "bonfire on a beach" and that slightly lightness, oiliness that you associate are a bit on the back burn. It's a lot more intense, like they've rushed it through the still. It's almost got a chilli hotness that you would look at from Talisker but with none of the electricity. The thunder without the lightning. Then battling away at the other end is the strawberry and cream flavours that are layered in between. And perhaps some candy floss. These all appear on the finish as the heat of the peat dies down and the fruit appears like a beautiful sunset coda. I think because both elements are so opposed that it actually works. I've had the Springbank wine finishes and they seem to be more integrated but at the same time don't always seem to work. This is almost the same - it's like walking between two rooms, both playing different types of music. Standing between them both it sounds like a complete mess but now and then both musics fit together and create something bizarre, unique and harmonious. It's fleeting but it makes you want to return to see if you can recapture a moment like it again. If Heston Blumenthal had decided to make a whisky i reckon it would be a bit like this...

Adelphi 2012 Casks

Right a few weeks back I got a few samples from some recent Adelphi casks. Single casks bottled at cask strength. It's taken a little while to give them my full attention - obviously you don't want to rush these things - so over the course of a couple of weeks I've tried each one twice and made these notes....

Balmenach
Cask 3265.
Distilled 1988, Bottled 2012. 23YO.
54.2%
170 bottles.

Nose: Playful, round, sweet and heady. Full bodied charmer. One to take home to meet the parents. Fruity, tropical citrus. Then a slight herby edge. Develops over time into aromas of Bakewell tart, fudge and cake. Occasional sterner hits of graphite, flint. Opens back up to softer cereal notes. A touch of key lime pie, orange Starburst sweets. Chocolate brownie big-style after some more time. Maybe some olbas oil. Back again with the green herb edge. Complex and inviting nose.

Taste: A slow builder. The spice is subtle, increases gradually with a slight rolling peak to it. There's an earthiness too. Perhaps mushrooms on toast - that earthy bit from the mushrooms, balanced against the malt edge of the toast. Savory.

Finish: Tangs it out with a slight bitter edge. The oak making a break for it. The lemon citrus fizz is short and a lick of salt makes itself known. The delivery is not as promising as the nose and perhaps a little bit shorter than expected.


Linkwood
Cask 5300
Distilled 1984, Bottled 2012. 27 YO
53.3%
261 Bottles.

Nose: Straight in with that Opal Fruit (showing my age there), lemon and lime and tropical nose. Great stuff and just what I love about Linkwood. Mouth-watering fruit, backed up and balanced by savoury notes. It took me a while to pin it down but that savoury part of the nose reminded me of that aroma of airplane seats and the dryness of wallpaper paste. Each to their own I suppose but that's what I got. Anyway this cask is a lot smoother, not as upfront and banging and a bit more finesse, refined, perhaps stately. There's a lot to consider as it zips about - there's more than a smack of crunchy green apples going on -  right big bag full. But also that lovely lemon sherbert fizz kicking around the margins. Definitely Linkwood all the way.

Taste: Big and full on. Crackles and crackling. Meaty. It's a typical Sheffield Hot Roast Pork. It's a Bacon sandwich. All the way. There's leather on the back and a subtle hit of smoke as it power slides it's way to it's conclusion.

Finish: Tangy with drying salt. Yeah salt. It's not exactly spice but it is subtle and it is strong. On the nose it's all fruit and sunshine and on the palate it's all power and strength. Hard motoring in a tropical paradise.


Bunnahabhain
Cask 948
Distilled 2000, Bottled 2011. 10YO
59.8%
636 bottles.

Nose: Sherry. Sweet and figgy. Slight tobacco. Big, bold and confident. Liquorice. Grilled meat. It takes a little while but then it opens up. Dusty wood, sherry, slightly perfumed. A touch of mint to keep it clean. Dark Cherry and fudge to warm it back up. After a second bash there's a soapy note I missed first time. The liquorice and cherry are still in place. Warming.

Taste: Like the nose, big and bold. Thick and chewy. Bitter Chocolate. Sweet sherry with a dose of chilli. Is it Bovril? More like Marmite - twiglets all the way.

Finish: Sharp and full. A slight bitter wobble at the end as the wood rumbles. For only 10 years it's a deep autumnal malt, both in colour and taste.


Bowmore
Cask 8
Distilled 1995, Bottled 2012. 16YO
54.4%
603 bottles

Nose: Sweet. Treacle cake. Stabby peat that jumps out and doesn't seem integrated. Very closed to kick off with. After a while begins to eek out some fruit and some balance. Light peat now. More shallow peat wrapped in honeycomb. Still a sharpness here and there. Bang - here we go - that's all Turkish Delight. And then snatched away back to engine oil and smashed orange. This reminds me a little of the Highland Park Signatory Unchillfiltered 19 YO current bottling. Tar. And boats. Tarpaulin.
Left overnight the glass takes on the most wonderful aroma. Old library. Books. Thames barge. Wet timber. Oil. Sails. Smoke. Wood burning stove. Salt. This is Maldon quayside in the winter. A thing of absolute beauty.

Taste: Big, dry and peat. Follows on from the nose with the sharpness. This is not a soft Islay. Light and then immediately hits in the middle of the tongue. Big peat, if slightly thin. Salt. Rope.

Finish: Salt and rope. Clanking boat lines in the wind. Alive and slightly electric. This dram is all about the sea. Not the brine, but the dry. Above the waves. Prevailing winds, sea spray. Deep winter. Wet timber. Endurance enjoyment.


Clynelish
Cask 4721
Distilled 1997, Bottled 2012. 14YO
57.2%
201 Bottles.

Nose: Orange and citrus and bacon fat. Full, thick and big. Complex goings on. Vibrant and woody. There's that bacon fat again. Scented candles???  Fragrantly fruity. There's some spice. Layers. Smoke, but charcoal embers not peat. Dying fire to a rising sun. Slight slight coastal salt. A touch of medicine cabinet but not much. Don't over play it. Soft leather. Gymkhana. Spent hay. Rain on tarmac. After the storm.

Taste: Ok this is.... Cmon Billy! That's a big delivery. Rears like a horse. Opens the traps.. wait for it.. then bang! Salt, sweet, spice. Layer and layer. Bitter, smoke. Bitter back to sweet. Back to salt. Wood. Mealy. Thoroughbred.

Finish: Smoke and salt to finish. A chilli kick but surging as opposed to Talisker's lightning bolt around the mouth zippiness approach. Robust and sharp.


Okay, some pretty great casks there from Adelphi. Quite hard to pick a favourite. The nose on the Balmenach is nothing short of absolute stunning, perhaps a big ask to maintain it on the palate but worth everything for that nose. Hmmm. Lovely. Deffo the best aroma of all the malts on show. Linkwood just reminds me of that old arcade game Outrun. It's a Ferrari Cabriolet with the foot down along the California coast road. It's such great fun to test drive. On the flip is the Bowmore which is it's exact opposite. Where there was sunshine there is now wind. Sea salt spray from waves. It's a sailors malt all the way. It has that homely feeling of being up against a wood fire as all the elements come closing in. Certainly not a beach holiday but hugely enjoyable in it's own way. Bunnahabhain does what it sets out to do in a very well constructed way. Well made and academically brilliant. But perhaps a bit too linear, a bit too in-the-box for me personally. Finally where Bowmore might be a boat, Linkwood a fast car, Clynelish is a race horse. Tight and muscular. Bold, striding, confident. Dense, complex and layered. A true thoroughbred.

This stuff is limited so if you do have the chance to pick up some of these bottles I recommend it, there's little to be disappointed by.