Thursday 1 March 2012

Deanston 12

We've been doing a bit of back bar spring cleaning up at the Blake. Pruning the whisky shelves, supping up the last of some old bottles, getting some new stock in, some old faves back again. One of them is the Deanston 12.

I've got a little soft spot for Deanston. The beautiful thing with whisky is that it can throw up loads of surprises - you can find a dram that challenges, pulls you about,  pushes you around and takes some time with to unlock it's little secrets. But sometimes you want something that is uncomplicated and easy going. Not every malt should be the equivalent of a Michelin restaurant, sometimes the best thing in the world is a bit of toast. And that's what I think about Deanston.

The distillery itself is housed in old Arkwright Cotton mill that was converted it's present usage in 1966. It's in a beautiful location, lying just outside the tiny leafy village of Deanston, close to Stirling. It's an imposing building nestled next to the wide-flowing River Teith that powers it's watermill. The watermill, once the largest in Europe, provides the electricity demands for the distillery - so it is completely self-sufficient.



It's a whisky that is off most people's radar. Commonly found in Marks and Spencer as they bottle a line for them. It's also not the easiest distillery to find and one that if you wish to visit you have to phone in advance. When I went they were on shut-down, servicing the stills so I couldn't get to have a look around.

The whisky itself feels indicative of it's location. Just over the Lowland border, rolling, undulating hills,  green, leafy, lush and lulling water. Slow and tranquil. Long ferments, slow distillation are a key to this. It's all honey, sweet cereal and malt on the nose. Honey on toast. It's the same on the palate - malt sweetness, orange marmalade, honey, waxy, toasty. The finish has a little lick of spice, a nod to the oak, just to knock it back to the dry side at the end. It's not a complicated malt, but it is tasty. Like I say sometimes the best thing in the world is a slice of toast.

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