Saturday 16 June 2012

Braeval - Signatory 1998

In the spirit of kicking out a few spirit reviews..

Braeval - This may well be Scotland's highest distillery. As if it makes a jot of difference apart from some bright spark in marketing. "Actually John I think you'll find our Low wines still is actually 20 metres higher than Dalwhinne's and our mash tun is at least 10 metres higher than Tomintoul". AIIGAF.

Anyway....
This bottle is another Signatory offering.
I like Signatory. I like their stark branding. I like the fact that Andrew Symington seems like Thomas the Tank Engine's Fat Controller. I like his grumpiness and gruff response to camera happy tourists at closing time around his pretty Edradour distillery.
I like Signatory. I like it's entry level into independent bottlings. You can pick up a malt for a few quid cheaper than that distillery bottle. That's got to be praised. You'll see them (and their "Tesco value"-like label on the shelf of many a whisky bar). And I like the fact they are fairly consistent. I've had a load of them that are pretty tasty. But nothing. That has rocked my world. Ever. And maybe that's the problem. Good - yes, Interesting - certainly, to die for - never. Regularly outbeat by Con Choice.


This was distilled at Braeval on the 12th November 1998. It was aged for 12 years in two bourbon barrels before bottling on the 9th March 2011. A release of 679 bottles from Signatory.

Nose:
Clean, sharp. Malty with a pungency.

Taste:
Spice, Bitter. Harsh Oak. Unforgiving. Salt. Oil. Sticking plaster. Mechanics.
A fatty mouth-feel but sharp and bitter. Like fluffy snow (yes both cold and wooly - at the same time).

Finish:
Long if a little bitter and unbalanced. A touch of salt perhaps at the end.

Look. This is not a joyous whisky. This is not celebratory. This is not a malt to savour. This is a malt to work through. It's just fucking needy. Even when it comes round from it's utter grump, even when it opens up it's just simply disappointing. Yeah, there's a hint of gingerbread. But it's just a concession to a malt that is not constructed properly. It's hard work. It's a fighty malt. You can understand why it may give importance to blends - it's all about body and strength. But in terms of taste and aroma it's left wanting.

End of.

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