Saturday 7 April 2012

Glendronach 14 - Sauternes Finish

Ok. Let's cut to the chase. Look I know full well that you, Glendronach and Benraich, make some fine whisky. Some of the best. I also know that, for some reason, (and I have my own suspicions) that you insist on travelling down this road of "finishes". Ok, so maybe Benriach takes the lead in this (6 different wood finishes) but in July 2010 GlennyD opened up 4 wood finishes - the "first of their kind ever to be released by the distillery in its 180 year history". So we had a Sauternes, a Virgin Oak, a Moscatel, and a Tawny Port finish. Most of the core range itself has been double dipped in a couple of casks along the way as well. So my question is what is the D.N.A. of the distillery? What is it's signature? What makes Glendronach, Glendornach? Because from this particular dram I'm finding it difficult to ascertain a straight answer.

Straight answers are not what this dram is about. Now, I'm not saying that this is a "bad thing". It's more like a thing I'm struggling with. You know that film "Inception"? Pretty tricky plot. Story with kinks in it. Tasty effects. That's what I feel about this. 

On the nose it's bang, straight into the action with desiccated coconut, chocolate fudge, and back to Bounty Bar ice cream. Sweet. Then after a little while longer up comes the strawberry jam. This cask has obliterated any sign of what may have been whisky previously - it's just sweet, but in an unlike Sauternes way - there's no grape vibe, just teddy bears picnic. 

The odd thing is that on the palate - it's all askew. Like a cake it's layered but with a sweet then bitter then a touch of salt as icing. There's no spice and no integration. It's sweet one way, and then hello bitterness coming from the other. There's no balance. And it just doesn't follow. Yeah, it's a little oily, a bit creamy, which is kinda nice. After a while in the glass it seems to be trying to become more whisky-like, like it's trying to shed off this big over-coat that's cloaking it. Will the real slim shady please stand up! 

Look, I'll be honest, I haven't a clue what this particular dram is up to. I just don't get it. That doesn't mean I don't like it. I like most drinks. But it is like "Inception". There's a lot more questions it throws up than resolves. It's enjoyable, yes. Baffling, yes. But fulfilling, no.

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